Pictures of the Week                                            August 13, 2002

I'm back from SportAir welding school and it was great!  Take a look at my class review page.

I decided to start with the bracket for the intercooler.  I took a piece of .080" 6061 aluminum out of my stock and cut off a 3.75" piece.  Using a piece of paper as a pattern I located the mounting holes on the engine and transferred them to the aluminum.  Then I bent the bracket to match the mounting boss offset on the engine.  Next step was to position the intercooler end cap in the appropriate location.  I secured the end cap to the bracket with C-clamps.   Then I unbolted the bracket from the engine and went to the welding table to spot weld the bracket to the end cap.   Next I used a hammer to form the bracket around the end cap and added additional spot welds after verifying fit on the engine and securing the final position with C-clamps.

   

This picture shows the intercooler inlet pipe positioned from the turbo to the end cap.  I will weld this pipe to the end cap and port the inside face for smooth flow.

 

This picture shows the intercooler in position  It will get welded onto the left end cap next.  Then I will work on the right end cap and bracket assembly.  It will be manufactured in the same manner as the left side with the intercooler exit pipe welded on and the inside face ported prior to welding the right end cap assembly to the intercooler.

The intercooler is located right under the oil strainer and oil drain so it will need to be removed to change the oil.  I am paying close attention to maintenance access here.  The plan is to remove two hose clamps, three bolts, and two nuts so the intercooler can fall out the bottom.

 

August 14, 2002

This is a photo of the intercooler inlet pipe being tack welded to the left end plate on the engine.

This is a photo of the finish welding of the left end cap to the inlet pipe.  The section under the bottom of the inlet pipe is giving me particular trouble.  I've decided to stop and let the piece cool completely.  When I start up again it will be with a larger electrode and more current to get local melting without heating the entire piece.   There is a lot of aluminum in this area with the end cap, mounting bracket and inlet pipe.  This is causing the heat to be pulled away from the joint so more current is needed.

 

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